The bonfires have ended and the first signs of autumn are peeking out. Hamo (Japanese conger eel), the main culinary star of the Gion Festival, changes its appearance with the passing of summer. Yet hamo is equally representative of the autumn season. Combining it with matsutake mushrooms makes for a gorgeous dish, one we accent with a crisp finish of kabosu citrus.

Starring here is the chili pepper leaf, or kigoshō. Seeds planted in spring have sprouted and grown little by little each day. Among them are green chili peppers, one of Kyoto’s most popular summer vegetables. The peppers vary in terms of aroma, type, and size, and their leaves and flowers are edible—and delicious. Aromatic and refreshing, the flavor is as fresh as it looks. Enjoy the taste of summer a little early this year.

Good news! Clams have arrived from Miyazu, Tango. Weighing in at over 200 grams each, these giants are full of plump and tender meat. We like to pair them with fresh seasonal vegetables and wild edible plants. The delicate flavor and aroma of the dish is pleasing to the nose and palate, and to the whole body.