Ripe black figs and ayu (small freshwater sweetfish) filled with roe, the perfect balance of sweet and savory. The textures of the dish delight just the same: flaky ayu, grilled over charcoal to perfection, and figs smooth and melting.
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Stroll around Kyoto in July and you’ll find dumpling-shaped talismans hanging on doorways, marking homes as “Descendants of Somin Shōrai” (蘇民将来之子孫也). A nod to the legend of a poor man who offered food to a god disguised as a weary traveler and received generous blessings in return, the talisman is said to offer protection from disease and misfortune. Food can improve one’s quality of life, just as the character 食 suggests. What better reminder than a dish to celebrate the summer harvest, carefully nurtured and free of pesticides: sea urchin and tomatoes from Umemoto Farm in Kyotango blended together in a chilled soup.
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The young sweetfish (ayu) from Lake Biwa herald the beginning of summer. Their petite size—about the length of an index finger—belies a surprisingly full-bodied flavor. We add refreshing white miso paste and punchy sweet onions and wild garlic to bring out the savory and bitter palate of the small fish.Read more ＞